BLOG I DAY 24 I ITALY'S FOUR SEAS: A cycle tour along the Italian peninsula
October 07, 2023 Trinitapoli, Puglia - Vieste, Puglia I 108.28 Km
This morning a good breakfast at the hotel after which the front desk person accompanied me to get the bicycle which was stored in the hotel garage. I load the bags onto the bike and unbelievable, yet another puncture but this time in the front wheel, which is much quicker to repair.
The first stretch - Once the tire puncture was repaired, it was finally off and in the square of Trinatapoli there was a mural dedicated to Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino which reproduces the faces in memory of the cruelest mafia massacres of the two judges and the men of the escort. Then, I took the Strada Provinciale delle Saline passing through the rural town of Margherita di Savoia, which derives from the name of the first queen of Italy, Margherita di Savoia.
The second stretch - Afetr passing Margherita di Savoia, the same road runs through the Salina di Margherita di Savoia nature reserve located south of the Gulf of Manfredonia in Puglia.
IIn some corner of the area between the left side of the road where you could see the salt pans and while on the right side the view of the sea while I was taking photographs I had met a local person with a beautiful dog who works at the salt pans who gave me very detailed information about the area telling me that: they were the largest salt pans in Europe and that they extend for kilometers into the Adriatic Sea and also that it is a naturalistic area rich in flora and fauna. I had seen pink flamingos and other birds. I don't remember your name but thanks again!
The third stretch - After greeting the gentleman and his dog I continued and the blue road sign indicated that I was leaving the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani Barletta and entering the municipality of Foggia. Zapponeta a territory that extends between the Margherita di Savoia salt pans, they are a natural protected area and the Gargano national park. And from another point of the provincial road I found the signs for the Gargano where I met Gaby, a woman from Germany who was also traveling by bicycle and after a chat or continued reaching Manfredonia.
CYCLING THE GARGANO PENINSULA in Foggia province, Puglia (Apulia) region.
The Gargano peninsula is sometimes called the spur of the boot, it is mountainous, and is partly covered by the remains of an ancient forest, the Umbra Forest. It is located between the towns of: Vieste, Monte Sant'Angelo and Vico del Gargano in the heart of the Gargano National Park, in northern Puglia in the province of Foggia.
Foresta Umbra derives from the word "shadow" due to the density of its vegetation which makes it mostly shady. It is part of the UNESCO world heritage site and is home to unspoiled nature, different species of trees (there is a large amount of beech, maples, etc.) and Aleppo pine in the coastal areas. This oasis of uncontaminated nature is home to a variety of animals and birds and there are also many well-signposted routes for cycling and trekking.
Two cycle days in the Gargano promontory - Description of the route between sea and mountains
This is a fairly challenging and mountainous route on the renowned Gargano promontory. It is a very spectacular cycling route that winds through fairytale scenery along the coast and crosses the mountainous hinterland with challenging stretches of road with some big climbs but also many satisfying descents. You cross stretches of road through the woods and ancient uncontaminated forests of beech, oak and other varieties and among the hills with expanses of olive trees and pine forests and home to a diversity of wild fauna.
You cycle on roads winding with curves and hairpin bends and among the wild mountains that fall sheer into the crystalline sea that crashes onto beaches and sea stacks and coves hidden among the rocks. Pedaling you pass by pretty towns, villages and white houses, some overlooking the sea and others grouped together with ancient stone streets and picturesque alleys. What more can you say about this cycling route? The effort on the bike is rewarded with breathtaking landscapes and uncontaminated nature, too beautiful!
The fabulous route I had taken from the coast to the forested mountains to the coast and the lake
The route starts from the charming town of Manfredonia on the south coast, the gateway to the Gargano "the strating point of the adventure", passing the coastal municipalities of: Mattinata, Vieste, on the eastern tip, Peschici, Rodi Garganico and Lesina "the closing point of the adventure" on the northern side of Monte Gargano in the province of Foggia.
The fourth stretch - Arriving at the pretty town of Manfredonia I crossed its seafront (Nazzario Sauno) and then joined the old SS89 road. You pedal initially on easy sections and then with ups and downs with fantastic coastal and mountain scenery, you pass the sign for Monte Sant'Angelo which I didn't take but continuing to pedal but on the old road (SS 89) a short distance away you come across a detour that does not include the passage of the tunnel (bicycles are not allowed), from this point the road is certainly more demanding, going up with hairpin bends up the valley of the marine side of Monte Saraceno (260 m ) which offers excellent panoramic points through glimpses of olive groves and waterfront views.
Then the road leads descent and from a corner of the top emerges the enchanting hill that rises halfway up the slope and encloses the splendid white city of Mattinata surrounded by olive groves and breathtaking views of the sea.
Manfredonia is a seaside town on the southern slope of the Gargano Promontory at the head of the Golfo (gulf) of Manfredonia. It is located within the Gargano National Park in Puglia in the province of Foggia.
Mattinata (city of the olive tree) is a small inland town nestled on two hills, Coppa Madonna and Castelluccio, surrounded by three mountains: Monte Sant'Angelo (west), Monte Saraceno (south), Monte Sacro (north), surrounded by terraces of different landscapes between views of olive trees, Aleppo pine forests, and other types of Mediterranean vegetation covering the slopes and valleys that approach the rugged cliffs and slope down towards the endless beaches and the sea of different shades.
From Mattinata there are two alternatives to go towards Vieste:
1. One choosing the "SS53 Litoranea from Mattina to Vieste" the road that runs closest to entire coast up to Viste. And it was the stretch that I didn't cover simply because I had already covered it on another cycling trip which offers truly breathtaking panoramic views but can be busy, especially in the high season.
2. The second one choose the internal road of the SS 89 Statale Garganica that crosses Mattinata-Foresta Umbra and passes near Monte Sacro. A route generally considered challenging. with little traffic and very panoramic. This is the stretch that I didn't know and that I had decided to follow.
The fifth stretch - So I had decided on the internal road and after leaving the town of Mattinata, I took the SS89 road again, you cycle close to the coast, where splendid views of the cliffs and the sea open up which you abandon as you enter the hinterland, crossing the forest Umbrian, you cycle at the foot of Monte Sacro and from about halfway along the route between one hairpin bend and another uphill with challenging slopes up to the Valli del Lupo (682 m).
The lush hinterland of the promontory offers a verdant backdrop of forest vegetation and Mediterranean scrub, in some places while I was pedaling the sound of the bells of the grazing animals kept me company, it was precisely the noise I heard from that oasis of peace and the beauty of the uncontaminated nature. The road took me up to 690 m and then finally the long descent takes me north of the promontory to the town of Vieste.
Vieste is a small historic seaside town nestled on a wonderful white limestone cliff and surrounded by many spectacular coastlines with beautiful long sandy beaches on the Gargano promontory, north of Puglia in the province of Foggia.
The fifth stretch - When I arrived in Vieste I stayed at the Palace Hotel Vieste today. The room of the hotel I had was very spacious and well equipped, and although furnished in a traditional style it is perfectly located in the city center and close to all the facilities.
The last Leg - After getting settled in my room and freshened up with a shower I immediately put my electrical equipment (bike computer etc) on charge and took a walk around the charming historic center and port area of Vieste. In the port there was an exhibition organized by the Vespa Club, which exhibited vintage Vespa models, including a Piaggio scooter model, it was a unique experience to see them!
After leaving the port I had walked around a bit and passed through an area that connects the high gate of the old city via the "La stair dell'amore" staircase. On the steps of this long staircase are the lyrics of the songs of some famous Italian singers. Afterwards I had dinner in a nice restaurant that had tables outside and I had eaten a pizza with rocket and mushrooms, very good and the person who served me was very kind.
After leaving the place I once again walked into the beautiful streets with narrow alleys and picturesque white houses that lead to the castle where there is a view of the Pizzomunno is a large monolith in white limestone about 25 meters high located right next to the splendid sea of Vieste, truly spectacular! You also pass local shops selling local products and a variety of restaurants and bars and even small markets.
This village is really beautiful to walk around and then there were some tourists but not many and so I really enjoyed my walk without the problem of pedestrian traffic. Back in my room my usual routine every evening and tomorrow I will leave the Puglia region and will be in the Abruzzo region.
coming soon