This bicycle touring adventure is Cycling along Italy's most stunning coastal roads of the Italian peninsula. The Italian peninsula is nicknamed the boot due to its shape. Three smaller peninsulas contribute to this distinctive shape, namely Calabria (the "toe"), Salento (the "heel") and Gargano (the “spur”)

About the adventure:

A cycling tour along the four seas: the Ligurian sea, the Tyrrhenian sea, the Ionian sea and the Adriatic sea skirting the entire italian peninsula along stunning coastal roads and crossing fourteen coastal regions: Liguria, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Calabria, Basilica, Apulia, Molise, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia, Romagna, Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia.

n 13 September 2023 I set off on my solo cycling trip which I completed in 30 days for a total of 3,582 km. I traveled a daily average of 123 Km/Day and kept each day turning two wheels of my bicycle named Girasole (“Sunflower”) with an average of 8.5 Hrs/Day in the saddle.

I loaded my bicycle with the help of my brother Claudio and his wife Elena onto the train from Milan Central Station towards Ventimiglia in Liguria where I started the journey. Ventimiglia is a coastal town on the edge of the Liguria region of Italy and is located on the Riviera dei Fiori, right on the coastal border between France and Italy, in the far western part of Liguria.

I finished in Trieste, which is in the country's Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and lies in the northernmost part of the high Adriatic in northeastern Italy, near the border with Slovenia. Then I took the train back to Milan.

This is what a Bicycle Touring - Self-contained trip is…

Cycle tourism is a lifestyle based up the adventure of independent cycling travel; you have the freedom to do what you want according to your own plans. You bring all your equipment with you and it offers you maximum immersion in the landscapes and culture of a country that hosts you. The downside to this type of travel is that it tends to involve much heavier bike setups.

Rolling away on two wheels is a slow, sustainable and fascinating way of traveling that changes the way we see the world. In practice, you visit the places that interest you in the world and the world connects to you and you reach the perfect balance between travel, feeling and movement.

The most beautiful feeling I experience when traveling through places is that I have not caused any damage, being peaceful, discreet and without polluting and it is the desire to explore the unknown, not to fear the unexplored. It is a sustainable and responsible way of traveling; it is my way of living respecting the territory that hosts me and its culture.

1. What drove me to have such an adventure around the perimeter of Italy?

The idea of this epic solo bike tour around the perimeter of Italy is a journey to discover myself, my homeland, the rediscovery of the passion for exploring the regions of my country.

I undertook this journey with the bicycle, a means of transport, a fulfilling physical activity forces you to travel slowly but fast enough so as not to miss anything in every place you visit and to be able to truly appreciate what is around and it allowed me to traveling in close contact with the authentic aspects of each region, each region with its own diversity of traditions, culture, culinary traditions, artistic wonders and each with its own individual history.

The trip to my homeland gave me the opportunity, in my own way, to spin my wheels and never have to compromise with others, giving me more flexibility and opportunity to meet the locals, interact with them and with their daily activities to seek a better understanding of the way others live and learn more about local culture and traditions without underestimating them the incredible beauty and variety of landscapes I saw, every day was a new experience in the beautiful country of Italy.

Even though it was not my first trip to this beautiful land, given that I had already cycled several kilometres (with a travel companion) almost everywhere in Italy including the islands of Sardinia and Sicily and also the mountain passes, the highest of which is the spectacular Stelvio Pass with its 2,757 meters high.

But this time I enjoyed the trip in my own way and in greater depth with the territory and the local people.

2. Was this the first time you traveled by bicycle?

I have already done several other long cycling trips and I have always done them independently and autonomously with a buddy companion. I have traveled extensively in Europe. And here are my four trips: I did four of them, my first trip was 4,684 km, the longest was 8,927 km for a total of 18,851 km. Then, the penultimate long trip was The Pacific Coast Cycle Route (3,000 km in 30 days) which stretches from Vancouver in Canada to San Diego, USA, near the Mexican border. I have also done cycling trips in Canada, three in British Columbia of 1,974 km and the other in Nova Scotia, Halifax of about 500 km. The most recent tour being is this one of 3,581 with a grand total of 22,666 km.

3. What is it like to do a trip like this alone?

In my travels I have always had a travel companion. Personally, I never had much trouble being alone during my long, multi-mile rides, but I always returned home. In any case, I have always been a bit solitary on my bike rides but also a sociable person and I interact with other people easily, so the transition to this type of travel has never been such a big challenge for me. In fact, given that I often cycle alone without ever getting bored or feeling alone, I have never experienced loneliness on this trip either. During the day there is always so much to discover, see and learn. But I also love traveling in company if I find a good travel companion and we are compatible with the trip.

In this type of trip alone and where you are never alone and it's impossible to get bored, it was a fun, carefree, incredible and satisfying experience to enjoy every moment with nature, it allows you to explore the area and It also opens up a world of opportunities to build a deeper relationship with the locals and their culture and to meet other tourists.  

It is also true that we do not always willingly choose this way of traveling which consists of advantages and disadvantages but then after having tried we are always happy to have done it and I highly recommend trying it even if only once!

The advantage of this way of traveling is that you can choose every aspect of your trip with complete freedom, a certain flexibility to change the itinerary, you pedal at your own pace with your own goals, you reach your goals, you experience the enthusiasm of novelty to discover new routes or places and accommodation wherever you want.

It's a lot of fun and pushes you to interact with many different people, you share good times, you learn new things, you get the most out of each other's knowledge and philosophy and you also cultivate beautiful friendships even if you've only known them for a few hours, and some with who we continue to stay in contact with.

The disadvantage of traveling alone is that you have to face new challenges, unknown and unexpected experiences, you may encounter risks and have to face them, there is no one to motivate you, you need to know some basics of bicycle repair in case of problems, it is managed the logistics, the itinerary and every responsibility and above all when it comes to finding accommodation that you don't always know you will find. In my case I don't make any reservations I love the spirit of adventure and adapting to the moment! So all this requires independence and self-confidence.

And after a nice day spent on the bike saddle you end up finding a place to stay and it depends on where you want to stay. And even then you won't feel alone or bored, there's always something to do. Personally I love camping it's a way to really enjoy nature it's a little more challenging there are routines to manage a lot of tasks to do but you can also enjoy moments camping before it gets dark. After that, I write or voice-record my travel diary, text my friends and family, read the map, and try to visualize the next day, then quickly fall asleep.

4. What question you got asked most often is regarding solo bicycle touring, aren’t you afraid to bike alone, as a woman?

I probably get asked this question, in some way, often during the journey, always answering: I'm not afraid, I'm careful. Yes, it happened when men asked inappropriate questions that they shouldn't have asked where I simply ended the questions without answering and wandered off with another answer and ended the conversation 'as quickly as possible.' When I finally removed myself from the conversation I smiled, a sort of vaccine against that moment of discouragement and riding a bicycle or walking away.

The safety and important thing I did before leaving for my trip was I told my brother who lives in Italy my location using Air Tag and another one by sharing my location on my phone. In addition I regularly send text or pictures to the family and friends who know where I am or where I want to be the day after.

5. What else can you say about the regions you've cycled in and what fascinated you?

I really enjoyed every single moment of this journey a unique experience that is well worth discovering, breathtaking scenery, challenging terrain a pleasures of discovering new things and the joy that comes with meeting new local people and warm Italian hospitality combine to create a unique cycling experience.

The thing that fascinated me was crossing the regions and I felt like I was at a concert of various singer-songwriters. Every region seems to be singing a unique song with the variety' of dialects, accents, voice intonation and rhythm changed and all - a Great Italian the Language of Music!

6. Do you have an exciting tale to tell of your two wheeled journey?  

The most exciting and enriching encounter was meeting a German man I met by chance while I was eating a sandwich from a local shop who stopped, exchanged a few more words and asked me where I was headed? I'm going to Reggio Calabria and incredibly but true he was also headed there and would have taken the ferry to Sicily at Villa San Giovanni (before Reggio Calabria). After meeting we cycled together for a few days and quickly became good friends and good cycling partners. I learn something new from him (thank you) and we continue to feel connected!

Arturo left his job and set out on his bicycle to see the world he would never return to. He has been traveling for the last 15 years living a solo and nomadic life and everything that belongs to him is in his bicycle bags which weighing a total of 80 kilos, he lives simply, choosing a sustainable lifestyle and as he says: more human.

He has made many bicycle trips and continues to do so and lately every year he travels from Germany to Sicily where he spends the winter. He has a great desire to never stop traveling and new adventures!

7. What else can you say about the regions you've cycled in and what fascinated you?

I really enjoyed every single moment of this journey a unique experience that is well worth discovering, breathtaking scenery, challenging terrain a pleasures of discovering new things and the joy that comes with meeting new local people and warm Italian hospitality combine to create a unique cycling experience.

The thing that fascinated me was crossing the regions and I felt like I was at a concert of various singer-songwriters. Every region seems to be singing a unique song with the variety' of dialects, accents, voice intonation and rhythm changed and all - a Great Italian the Language of Music!

8. How was the reception of the local inhabitants and what kind of encounters do you have during the trip?

One of the best things about cycle touring is the wonderful people you meet and learn from, who are locals where you are. They will be able to tell you stories, facts and the daily routine of life in that particular area. It certainly is a great way to open doors you have connections and form friendships you meet and with local people and other travellers.

The people I met in general regardless of age, and gender were very friendly and warm, generous, they went out of their way to help me and I was surprised by the affection and hospitality they showed me. It was incredible how many new things I discovered and how many local roads they advised me to take and I received so many compliments and enthusiasm from them.

A couple of times I needed to go to a bike shop (I lost a screw and I had bought an inner tube), they were also very kind.Then, I had some problems with the brakes and I took the opportunity to stop at the shop called TUTTTI CAMPIONI recommended by a local person while I was in a coffee shop having  a cappuccino. When I set foot in the shop with my loaded travel bicycle, two smiles greeted me asking what I needed: one was the owner of Vincenzo Santorini's shop (he is an Italian road cyclist, active between 1980 and 1980).  With his enthusiasm he showed me the t-shirts he had won and exhibited photographs of his races and while Gabriel, his collaborator and also a cyclist, checked my brakes with such professionalism.

In the end Vicenzo gave me a cycling shirt "we are all champions/all champions" because it was my birthday, what unexpected kindness, I immediately put it on and before I left his shop he surprisingly interviewed me on his cell phone asking me questions on my trip and then I continued to cycle with joy wearing that beautiful cycling jersey!

If you are looking for a cycling route that takes you through a series of different roads and landscapes ask the local cyclists they are a really good source of advice. You don't just meet local people but you meet many other people traveling by bike where you exchange curiosities and travel experiences and then you also meet people who make long journeys on foot.

While I was cycling along a dirt path near Santa Maria di Leuca, the place where the Ionian Sea meets the Adriatic Sea is located at the end of Puglia in Salento and is the point of the peninsula's of the heel of the boot a geographical shape, represents Italy in Puglia. In that uncontaminated and very solitary place I met a very nice group of very kind Italians equipped with backpacks on their shoulders and the enthusiasm of their journey came out of their faces and they were almost at the end of their journey of the " Via Francigena of the South”.

Also with them we exchanged experiences of two different ways of travelling, with different rhythms , with the same purposes and pleasures that go with being in contact with nature in a deeper, more ecological and satisfying way is a unique way of seeing the world!

A cycling trip takes you to pedal for many hours a day and has goals for the end of each day. Beyond that, the incredible landscapes and the places and joys that you experience while cycling, what differentiates a beautiful journey from an unforgettable journey are the extraordinary people you meet during the journey, with whom you share emotions, personal experiences, moments beautiful.

So to all of you who have crossed my path and shared with me a piece, or even just an instant, of your life with me, and each of you who every day wanted to know the progress of the journey via text message, and who congratulated me on the solo cycling trip.

I hope I have been a source of inspiration for all of you who have asked me for information about the trip and I hope that one day you too can experience the joy of a cycling trip.

And today, now that I have returned home, there is nothing better than a bicycle trip that leads you to pedal for many hours a day through various beautiful landscapes and allows you to fully experience the area, immerse yourself in the cultures and live your cycling goals for the end of each day.

Beyond this and the joys you experience while cycling, what differentiates a beautiful journey from an unforgettable journey are the extraordinary people and unforgettable are the people you meet during the journey, with whom you share emotions, personal experiences, beautiful moments.

After this fantastic trip there is nothing better than having met special people on my list of friends where we continue to stay in touch, together with you, you have made my trip full of memorable moments!

Many thanks to all of you!

9. What type of bicycle did you use and what was your cycle touring equipment?

II ride on a Marinoni touring bicycle, custom built by Montreal based manufacturer Giuseppe Marinoni (ItaloCanadase team member and family heirloom) who is the founder and is one of the best-known bicycle frame builders in North America.

This type of bike allows me to put Tubus luggage racks both in front and behind and on the handlebars where I load Ortlieb travel bags also known as "panniers". An important part of any journey is where to put things and how to distribute the weight for a more stable ride.

My bike was also equipped with front and rear fenders, rear-view mirror, bell, three water bottles, lock and of course I used a helmet. On each of my trips I used different set ups on the bicycle depending on the trip.

Clothing to bring on this trip was easy as the weather was pretty much the same everywhere; I wore the clothing based on layers that can easily be removed/added if the weather changes during a ride and of course a GoreTex rain jacket. I always use dedicated cycling shoes, all mountain MTB shoes with pedals having a flat side on one side and SPD on the other. I love cycle shoes that allowed you to walk everywhere and I also had walking sandals that I used when camping as a second shoe.

Camping equipment

Tent (The NEMO Hornet OSMO™), sleeping bag ultralight (Sea to Summit), sleeping pad ultralight (Therm-a-Rest NeoAir UberLite ), Pillow ultralight (Nemo), stove (MSR's PocketRocket 2 Mini Stove Kit), Pot (TOAKS in titanium 700ml), cutlery and cup (Sea to Summit of titanium) while the plate was a multifunctional camp bowl that packs flat (Sea to Summit) and a Basic first aid kit.

Technological accessories

• GPS cycle computer, Lights front and rear, Power banks, Smartphones, Action cameras, USB cable and power socket, Victorinox Swiss Army Knife.

•   Bike Repair Kit & Tools Outdoor Cycling Maintenance Tool Kit

Tools will depend on the trip what type of mobile Bike Repair Kit & Tools workshop you need. On this trip I brought the minimum necessary, since I would have found bicycle shops nearby.

•  Spare inner tube, patch kit, pump, cycling multi-tool (with allen and screwdrivers wrenches), pressure gauge,tire pump, mix of spare components, oil and rag.

10. How much does your setup weight including the equipment and the bicycle?

Taking a trip on two wheels can be very varied depending on the trip you intend to take, the length and the climate you will find will influence the quality of equipment you will have to bring and, therefore, the way you would pack your bags and therefore the load of the bicycle will change. This means that a fully loaded touring bike weighs on average 25 to 45 kg.

Every trip I undertake I think about what to bring and not to bring and therefore I think carefully about what my needs and desires are even if this means sacrificing some comforts.

On every trip you learn to optimize the list of things to bring, there is always more to learn!

Traveling with a light bicycle, not too loaded, means more freedom, the easier it will be to ride it, the easier it will be to move, you will be able to go faster and if you only travel on asphalt even faster.

The most difficult thing, however, is to reduce the weight if you travel in winter (which requires heavier clothing) or like me who travel with technological accessories because I love documenting my trips with the GoPro but since I love making films I have a greater weight, but it is my choice and I pay the consequences of being heavier! Traveling with a light bicycle, not too loaded, means more freedom, the easier it will be to ride it, the easier it will be to move, you will be able to go faster and if you only travel on asphalt even faster.

If I had just chosen a much lighter solidarity cycling tour ("credit card tour") the weight would have been much lighter, but it wasn't. I love challenging, off-the-grid adventures, wandering around on an autonomous bike gives me the most control and independence!

For my trip I was light enough and not too heavy for the type of trip chosen, and I managed to clock up the kilometers I wanted, travelling on mixed terrain, in complete freedom and as I wanted and I achieved my goals!

If I had just chosen a much lighter solo cycling tour ("credit card tour") the weight would have been much lighter, but this was not for me. I love challenging, off-the-grid adventures, wandering around autonomously on my bike gives me the most control and independence!

11. Have you ever wondered where to stay overnight when you are traveling by bike?

Personally, every day I experience the cycling adventure in a flexible way and leave room for the unexpected; it's a feeling of freedom and I don't ask myself the problem of where to stay overnight. I don't like to endlessly plan and I prefer to decide on the moment from time to time and I love the options between to choose from depending on where I end up at the end of my trip to the daily stages.

Being an enthusiast of outdoor activities, and a true lover of camping, there is nothing more beautiful than ending a day spent on your bicycle saddle with nature and continuing to live the experience by staying in a campsite, sleeping in the open air in your own tent and have an experience closer to nature and what surrounds you instead of staying in a room in a B&B or hotel.

Of course it could be the cheapest solution but for me it's not about reducing costs but about being in contact with nature! It is not a light trip, but the feeling of being self-sufficient and of bringing your "home" and all your camping equipment with you gives a sense of freedom and is a unique and always different emotion!

I really believe that cycling and camping go together in a naturalistic eco-journey and in one of the most rewarding parts of cycle tourism.

I also did the night bivouac, where I was able to stay independently with nature. It is a short-term free campsite to be set up after sunset until before sunrise. Wild camping is different, it is not bivouac and is often used inappropriately and therefore confused. There are regulations throughout Europe and Italy and in some regions it is not allowed. As on other occasions in North America with backpacking or cycling trips, it is a good practice to keep in mind and to be discreet: find an isolated place and follow the "Leave No Trace" ethic - that is, do not leave waste or traces of where the tent was pitched and use organic soaps, etc. so as not to ruin the vegetation.

However, I have also slept in B&Bs, hotels and once in a Hostel, on the Amalfi Coast in Sorrento (very clean and organized but not my type of accommodation), which were recommended by locals.

!2. What goals do I have when I'm on the bike saddle?

My goals in the saddle are to explore and reach my goal while challenging myself over longer distances, with steep climbs which are nice and to feel the wind because it comes towards you and you challenges you while pedalling more and more without giving up; it is a wonderful emotion to push through the wind which is obviously stronger than me!

13. How do you create your cycling adventure?

One of the most challenging aspects of cycle touring concerns a bit of planning, including determining the type of journey to undertake so that it is stimulating, fun and safe and without underestimating the type of roads to be covered and choosing the most suitable tires for the adventure is as important as the bicycle setup.

On this trip it was very simple: I set up my bicycle with hybrid tires (35 mm), suitable for any type of terrain, and thus I was able to turn the two wheels wherever I wanted and I created my adventure with the discovery of new places, found by coincidence, making them spontaneous, I create my own adventures: I don't follow paths laid out by others, obviously building knowledge of the destination online and I trust my instincts. I organize a minimum travel program (the daily stages depend on the trip), I simply get on my bike and set off on an adventure with the spirit of discovery of my unknown and preferably remote places, remote places guarantee us more authentic experiences, found by chance, making them fascinating and unique! My cycling trips are timeless and often aimless and I never know for sure where I will end the days, and each day I experienced wonderful moments in the unknown and unexpected and I had fun!

My track and route are only defined at the end of the day. Why? It's fun and more spontaneous! ;)fascinating and unique!!

14. Have you followed any cycling routes of the Ciclovia Tirrenica/Ciclabile Tirrenica ((BI190) and the Ciclovia Adriatica/Ciclabile dell'Adriatico or what can you tell us about the route?

​

I followed sections of two major cycle paths: The Ciclovia Tirrenica/The Tirrenica Cycle Route ((BI190) and the Ciclovia Adriatica/Adriatic Cycle Route, which run along the coasts of the four seas and that were spectacular routes with scenic and varied landscapes through historic places.

The sections I cycled on both cycle routes have particular and different natural characteristics, but each shows its own postcard-like scenery with stunning, unspoiled coastlines, beautiful and often wild beaches, stunning waters, incredible views of low mountains, culture and lovely people.

15. What can you tell us about the La Tirrenica cycle routes and which is the most beautiful one you have ridden or what can you tell us about the route?

The primary future cycle path which will overlook the sea is a 1200 km long network which will cross three regions: Liguria, Tuscany and Lazio, starting from Ventimiglia in Liguria on the border with France, to arrive in Rome in Lazio.

The Cycle Network Plan is under construction and is not yet complete but has some great practical features.

The others will have to wait until the project is not just on a piece of paper but becomes a reality. It will be a joy for multipurpose uses of people who will have greater safety, comfort and enjoyment.

LIGURIA:

The cycle-pedestrian path of the Western Ligurian Riviera welcomed me almost immediately after arriving from Milan to Ventimiglia by train and it was the Cycling Path of the Coastal Park "Pista ciclabile della Riviera dei Fiori /Cycling Flower's Riviera“, 28 km long and one of the longest in Europe starting from Ospedaletti following the coast to San Lorenzo al Mare.

This wonderful level cycle path was built along the old disused railway network (it was a section of the railway line from Genoa to Ventimiglia), passing through illuminated internal tunnels and outside one encounters places of historical interest and vast landscapes, lush green valleys surrounded by low mountains, small villages, houses with different colors, small fishing ports, views of the seafront and you pass refreshment points, bicycle rental points and there is no shortage of public toilets.

It is truly a beautiful double-lane cycle path with plenty of space and many places to stop and admire the surrounding beauty.

Passo del Bracco is a pass of the Apennines from Sestri Levante and is a climb located in the Liguria region. It has a length of 15.3 km, a difference in altitude of 628 meters above sea level and an average gradient of 4.1%.

A route discovered by chance because I didn't have a real destination to follow and while I was pedaling I met a very nice local cyclist and while we were chatting he advised me to go up along the Aurelia state road (SS1), telling me that it was very beautiful and that this climb is often part of the Giro d'Italia.

The road to Il Bracco initially passes through dense vegetation characterized by chestnut forests and as you go up, between curves, hairpin bends and descents you can enjoy naturalistic scenarios such as spectacular views of the mountains and numerous breathtaking views and panoramas of the Ligurian sea.It was really worth it and thanks to the cyclist we met in the hamlet of Trigoso in Sestri Levante!

TUSCANY - Viareggio, on the Versilia coast and Pisa:

Viareggio "Pearl of the Tyrrhenian" in the province of Lucca is a small, charming seaside town built along the Versilia coast. Its seafront is famous for its sandy beaches some of which are totally isolated. Viareggio is also famous for the Carnival of Viareggio  celebration, a parade of floats and masks, renowned in Italy and in Europe. It is a very touristy town but for me it wasn't so because I was there in September when things were quiet, and I was able to see it with peace of mind.     `

The Versilia cycle path is dedicated to Fausto Coppi (he was a former professional road racing cyclist from Italy) and almost every year the Giro d'Italia crosses a coastal stretch. It offers around 30 km of cycling adventures that extends all along the seafront that goes from Viareggio to Forte dei Marmi and is part of the Tirrenica Cycle Route. Its’ a very beautiful coastline!

The multi-purpose paths of the Pine Forests of Viareggio in the heart of Versilia are two large green spaces.

The Pine Forest of Ponente is a very nice urban park located to the north, a few turns of the bicycle wheel from the city of Viareggio.

The Levante Pine Forest also called Macchia Lecchese is part of the Regional Natural Park of Migliarino, San Rossore and Massaciuccoli and it extends up to the city of Pisa.

IIn this enormous natural park where I cycled along the pine forest paths knowing only that on my right there was the sea with vast stretches of beach and somewhere up there were the Apuan Alps, the mountain side of Versilia and lots of nature surrounded and I had met a very kind local cyclist who stopped to admire the surrounding landscape and we had a chat and cycled together for a few kilometres, it was as if I had a private cycling guide, he simply gave me his time to make me known that maybe I wouldn't have seen.

It was incredible how descriptive he was to me and how much useful information about the areas and he showed me the best way to go to Pisa. It was a very informative and naturalistic ride amidst lush vegetation, along various pine paths, marshy areas, pedaling up and down bridges and a lake full of wildlife. Then I continued on to Pisa.

Marina di Cecina along the northern stretch of the Etruscan Coast I cycled in the Tombolo Natural Reserve of Cecina, a beautiful nature reserve that extends for 15 kilometers along the coast. Inside the reserve there are paths of Mediterranean pine forests that overlook a short distance from the sea and long sandy coastal formations of tomboli with long cords of wild dunes covered with thick vegetation.

It is inhabited by numerous animal species including wild boars, foxes, red deer, wolves, green woodpeckers and other animal species and a diversity of flora. It is truly a beautiful forest is not a long ride but it was worth it to bring me forward!

LAZIO

Roman Coast State Nature Reserve extends (about 16 thousand hectares) in the municipalities of Rome and Fiumicino in Lazio.

I have cycled sections of the route and it is very beautiful and naturalistic, winding along flat paths with dirt cycle paths and sandy stretches surrounded by vegetation of mixed forests and dunes, pine forests and long wild beaches and the protagonist is the sea.

CAMPANIA

Sorrento Peninsula & The Amalfi Coast in Campania

The Sorrento peninsula is a coastal part that overlooks the splendid Gulf of Naples in the Tyrrhenian Sea. On this side it is called the Sorrento coast, while the other part of the coast on the side that bathes the Gulf of Salerno is called the Amalfi coast in Campania. These areas are famous all over the world, you cycle through splendid narrow roads with various slopes with differences in height and continuous ups and downs which could be busy, but since I was in the low season I found them quite smooth.

The route winds along scenic roads winding along the sides of the cliffs and every kilometer of effort on the bike was satisfying for the variety of landscape spectacles of breathtaking views, rich landscapes of the sea with different colors and the slopes of the Lattari Mountains, picturesque colorful houses, beaches set among the rocks, fishing villages rich in a variety of flora and fauna. On the streets of the Coatiera Amalfi there are often parked small trucks selling local fruit and the famous Amalfitano Limoncello (is an Italian lemon liqueur) is also renowned for the production of colorful ceramics, traditional foods and very well known but not only in this part of the "talia the Caprese salad (is a classic Italian salad with juicy tomatoes, mozzarella), born on the island of Capri, a gastronomic icon of Campania.

BASILICATA AND CALABRIA are the two regions bathed by the same Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas

These two coastal regions I circumnavigated by bicycle on their unmissable coasts are set between irregular hills, steep escarpments, where the cliffs of the mountains descend precipitously towards the sea, and their cliff edges sculpted by the waters of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas. Both have numerous coastal routes, you can find cycle paths in some areas or cycle on the state road 18 Tirrena Inferiore or the State road 106 Ionica is an state highway which extends for 491 km from which runs along the coast that connects Reggio Calabria in Calabria, Basilicata and Puglia to Taranto. These two regions offer different experiences but both border the sea with various nuances, they present wild and enchanting sandy beaches with breathtaking scenes of natural landscapes, you come across several ancient villages and are your lands rich in history and tradition.

Every day of cycling brought with it a new wonder to discover!

THE STATE ROAD 18 TIRRENA INFERIORE from Campania, Basilicata and Calabria

The state road 18 Tirrena Inferiore (once the royal road of Calabria), is a road on the Tyrrhenian coast that connects Campania (Salerno) to Reggio Calabria. It is indeed an uncontaminated naturalistic route, landscaped and historical and characterized by rocky coast roads with various ups and downs immersed in a vibrant green Mediterranean vegetation, views of caves and beaches and some are accessible on dry land with the sea as the protagonist and opposite of the the sea with its different colors extends panoramic views of the very green Apennine mountains and natural parks.

What more can I say: Cycling along the coastal road which offers different landscapes, unparalleled views and fun adventures, also the locals are friendly on a corner of the road while I was taking a break I was offered a bottle of water and a coffee served on the tray!

BASILICATA

Maratea is the only village that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea in the Basilica region (it extends for 68 km), more precisely on the gulf of Policastro and is nestled at the foot of the Apennines. Along the road you can see the Statue of Christ the Redeemer, a 21 meter high Carrara marble statue facing the sea located on the top of Monte San Biagio in the province of Potenza. If you want you can see from above what I didn't do but it's equally interesting to see it from below.

In this corner also called the "Pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea". While I was pedaling I had different views of landscapes including the beautiful beaches and sea with a crystalline turquoise color and the presence of fragrances of Mediterranean vegetation.

CALABRIA

Chianalea di Scilla (it is also defined as the little Venice of the south), is a charming and picturesque fishing village discovered by chance overlooking the sea of the Costa Viola at the entrance of the Strait of Messina where the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas meet in Calabria.

It is characterized by narrow cobbled streets that cannot be traveled by bicycle and so I walked the bicycle through wonderful corners with houses with facades and each block is separated by paths that lead to the sea. But beyond that there is a beautiful boardwalk with a view of Castello Ruffo, overlooks the beach. And indeed a fairytale place and every corner was a real visual surprise and always different!

COSTA DEL MAR IONIO: Calabria - Basilicata - "Arco Ionico Tarantino" Taranto, Puglia

Calabria, Basilica and Ionian Puglia are characterized by a predominantly flat coastline, compared to the Tyrrhenian side of the peninsula and therefore cycling is not difficult.

As well as after Catanzaro Lido the road gradually becomes more demanding until reaching Isola di Capo Rizzuto in the province of Crotone but then arriving on not too demanding roads in Taranto in Puglia.

As usual I look for cycle paths, paths along the sea and local roads that are rarely used by cars but this is often not possible. So, on this Ionian coastal side I cycled on the State Road 106 Jonica (SS 106) which with its 91 km connects three coastal regions along the Ionian coastal strip from Reggio Calabria in Calabria, to Abruzzo and ending in Taranto in Puglia.

My bicycle wheels rolled through wonderful landscapes and historical and cultural viewpoints on the coasts of the Ionian waters. Both regions flanking the ever-changing coastline offer a wide variety and diversity of wild and uncontaminated natural beauty with its sandy beaches and in some places the presence of dunes, surrounded by incredible breathtaking views and the sea of different shades of color. But it is not just the sea that is the protagonist, in several points the sea, the hills and the mountains meet with the mountain ranges of parks of the three inland regions where a particular and vast variety of flora and fauna dominates.

Calabria Ionian Coast: The Jasmine Coast - The Orange Coast - The Saracen Coast

On the Ionian coast I cycled through the "Grecanina" area where the Calabrian Greek or Grecanic dialect of Calabria has been preserved in the province of Calabaria (about 60 km), to the Costa dei Gelsomini (90 km), which is the name of the coastal area of the province of Reggio Calabria and takes its name from the cultivation of the jasmine plant, very widespread in this area on the Costa degli Aranci (about 75 km) the name refers to the fact that orange and other citrus trees grow in the area and then cross the Costa degli Saraceni took the name from the historical age of the ancient Greeks located in the upper Crotone Ionian Sea (60km) concluding in the Costa degli Arcei (57km) and then continuing along the Apulian coast up to Taranto.

SALENTO IN PUGLIA/APULIA

Salento, is a peninsula also known as Terra d’Otranto, and includes the province. of Lecce and part of those of Brindisi and Taranto. This incredibly beautiful corner often described as the heel of Italy's boot in Puglia/Apulia.  In the extreme southern point there is Santa Maria di Leuca,  (often spelled simply) and on a wide coastal scene accompanying this view there is a lighthouse which is not only picturesque l but also important  that marks the meeting point of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas. In this naturalistic corner that is nothing short of majestic and is known for rocky coastline, rich in numerous caves, its white sandy beaches and calm turquoise sea and a few kilometers away is the famous seaside resort of Marina di Pescoluse which thanks to the surrounding landscape is known as "The Maldives of Salento”.

Cycling around Salento allowed me to immerse myself in suggestive corners, in the natural beauty of the region towards country roads, on the sides of the road with spectacular landscapes, expanses of centuries-old olive trees. It allowed me to see the farms, they are rural settlements from the medieval period, you can also see the ruins scattered around the grounds of the dry stone structures among which the pajare stand out (similar to the famous trulli which are found almost everywhere in this area).

While I was cycling in the countryside I came across the fauna that lives there, I saw some tarantulas which I later discovered from the local people that it is the symbol of Salento "they are called the Salento geco or wall tarantula which is a lucky charm" and squirrels. It is home to other animals that I haven't seen, such as hedgehogs, foxes, etc.

As you cycle on the roads along the coast you see postcard images of incredible Mediterranean landscapes with fine sandy beaches, coastal dune parks, limestone cliffs, you enjoy beautiful white beaches and turquoise waters with the sound of the sea, you see numerous fishing villages overlooking the sea, you cycle through cities of white buildings, narrow cobbled streets and fascinating and different architecture that depends on where you are.

Apulia is renowned for its olive oil is called "the gold of Puglia", the Apulian ceramics and the most famous wine of Salento is "Salice Salentino", there are many typical traditional dishes including Salento's orecchiette: little ear- shaped pasta, Salento-style and a panzerotto, a pizza filled and fried like a doughnut and much more to taste.

This magnificent seaside peninsula is well known throughout the world and therefore in the summer months it can be crowded but in my case I cycled in the low season in September and I was able to enjoy this paradise with more tranquility.

As well as in the Ionian coastal part I had found closed campsites etc but I had the opportunity to really enjoy it without too many people or too much heat and interact with locals who have shown me so much kindness. I really love Salento.

16. Have you followed any cycle paths of the Ciclovia Adriatica/the Adriatic Cycle Route?

The Adriatic Cycle Route, also known as the Adriatic Green Corridor, the 1300 km cycling route that follows the Adriatic coast through extraordinary and diverse landscapes with history and traditions and connects: Santa Maria nel Salento (south) in the Puglia region to Trieste in the Friuli region Venezia Giulia (north), near the Slovenian border. The route can be done from either direction, it depends on where you want to start.

You cycle through seven Italian regions: Friuli Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Emilia Romagna, Marche, Abruzzo, Molise, Puglia.

The project is part of the network of cycling itineraries created by FIAB (Italian Federation of the Environment and Bicycle), as well as

  partly in the planning stage and partly already built and the existing one is very beautiful.

17. What can you tell us about the Ciclovia Adriatica/Ciclabile dell'Adriatic routes and which is the most beautiful one you have ridden or what can you tell us about the route?

Ciclovia Adriatica:  From Santa Maria di Leuca to Trieste

Starting from Santa Maria di Leuca, I immediately start pedaling with the various ups and downs of the coastal road, Provincial Road 358 of the delle Terre Salentine  which runs along the eastern coast with panoramic and different views of the sea up to Otranto. Due to ongoing works, a stretch of road was blocked with signs between the towns of Roddi and Verduno.

A very kind gentleman in the car had advised me to take the road to the small town of Uggiano la Chiesa, telling me that the first stretch was very uphill (he would have liked to load my bike on his car, it wouldn't have been there) but in any case not I would have done it regardless of his kindness. Telling me when you arrive in town I'll offer you a coffee at the bar in the square for the reward of the climb and he was sorry for the road interruption, he and he was a local inhabitant.

The alternative road is woah a climb from the point where I was that in the first sections I had to walk with the bicycle but there were balconies with panoramic views of the sea. Uggiano la Chiesa is a characteristic small historic town in the south-east, 77 meters above the sea surface. The long descent had brought me back to the road closure on the opposite side of the provincial road 358 and then arrived at the coastal town of Otranto in the province of Lecce.

From Oltranto, the route now winds through ups and downs surrounded by stunning pristine landscapes are uniquely beautiful of the provincial S.P.366 - "Otranto Laghi Alimini', you pass the Alimini Grande lake visible from the road and is surrounded by a rocky band, from beaches, a strip of pine forest and vegetation typical of the Mediterranean area.This beautiful lake is a little larger than the other two nearby.It is located to the south between Otranto and Torre dell’Orso.

From San Cataldo the asphalted road with some paths, you pass to peaceful small town Frigole with its beautiful uncrowded beach, and then Polignano a Mare in the Province of Bari. Arriving at the small town of San Cataldo and not far from the picturesque beaches I continued along the coast passing the small town Frigole with its beautiful uncrowded beach, and then Polignano a Mare in the Province of Bari.

Polignano beautiful little seaside town with lovely beaches and on the seashore there a marale near a cycle path and there is a three meter high bronze statue (made by an Argentine sculptor Hermann Mejerof) of the famous Italian singer Domenico Modugno is his the birthplace, who became famous with his song “Nel blu pensiero di blu” triumphed in Sanremo in 1958 which depicts the artist with his arms wide open to resemble the famous song “Volare”.

From Pogliano I continued on the provincial road (SP87) south coast of Brindisi and then my free spirit made me change direction, discover another route and thanks to a goggle map I cycled on dirt paths, a little far from the sea and a little further into the inland surrounded by country agricultural land and land in the presence of ground-based photovoltaic systems. on this journey I met several people who were traveling along the Via Francigena.

Arriving in Brindisi I cycled along the beautiful Lungomare Regina Margherita occupies the southern part of Brindisi bay. It's a seaside promenade with nice atmosphere with several places bars and restaurants. There were a good number of interesting yachts and boats anchored, fishing boats, the Roman columns and stairways (it is the symbol of the city of Brindisi and also the symbol of the end of the ancient Via Appia), and the Navy of Brindisi.

CYCLE PATHS NEAR MONOPOLI - OSTUNI between Brindisi and Bari

A pleasant ride along the coast between Brindisi and Bari. The route winds along provincial roads, dirt roads near the sea, and paved roads that run along the sea.

Ostuni, the White City of Salento, is located in the province of Brindisi on the highest hill of the three, more than 200 meters above sea level and 8 km from the coast. The white lime, houses, stone buildings and the streets dominate the town, and it is surrounded by extensive red land with olive trees on the ground and other Mediterranean vegetation.

Monopoli is an enchanting and charming historic fishing town visible by its extraordinary variety of design and medieval architecture from the white and brown shades, labyrinths of alleys, with several very picturesque beaches with whitewashed harbour walls  overlooking the scenic Adriatic coast.

il comune di Ostuni sorge tra  bianche masserie e trulli che si confondono nelle distese delle verdi colline e tra gli ulivi secolari.


In this area there are several networks of cycle and pedestrian paths that connect different surrounding areas, there were so many to discover but I didn't see every corner. I cycled through unknown paths discovered by chance made of olive trees and the sea, rich in historical places, immersed in a wild and uncontaminated nature with breathtaking views and rich in flora and fauna and here is the stretch that I cycled:

The State Nature Reserve - "Torre Guaceto" Marine Area is a protected shoreline  located in the upper Salento and between Ostuni and about 18 kilometers Brindisi. It is an area where the vegetation is dominated by a cover of grass with rocky coast beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters lapping the shore.

The cycle path of Via Traiana (also known as Via Appia Traiana) was a Roman road from the imperial era that connected Beneventoto to Brindisi. The surrounding landscape has remained unchanged over time. What was built presents all the same settings, the paths are of dry stone walls, there is also a section with Roman paving, and on the sides red soil with centuries-old olive trees and other local vegetation

The Via Fracegina (pilgrimage route) cycle path)

In this stretch of the route you cycle in the hinterland through lush agricultural land with different scenery but the surrounding landscape has remained unchanged over time: what has been built has all the same settings, the paths are of dry stone walls, there is also a stretch with Roman paving, and on the sides red earth with centuries-old olive trees and other vegetation. And again you come across ancient farms, a riding school, signs for the Dolmen of Montalbano, also known as a stone table and megalithic structure, signs for the Albergabici, a "bed & bike for cycle tourists", an ancient roadman's house, a place to stay. From that point I cycled sections of the Coastal Dunes Park.

The route  od the Coastal Dunes Park run along a naturalistic oasis of landscaping the spectacular views of the sea and fragile and dynamic ecosystems and sand of the dune covered widest range of plants and of abundance of wildlife.

CYCLING THE GARGANO PENINSULA in Foggia province, Puglia (Apulia) region.

The Gargano peninsula is sometimes called the spur of the boot, it is mountainous, and is partly covered by the remains of an ancient forest, the Umbra Forest. It is located between the towns of: Vieste, Monte Sant'Angelo and Vico del Gargano in the heart of the Gargano National Park, in northern Puglia in the province of Foggia.

Foresta Umbra derives from the word "shadow" due to the density of its vegetation which makes it mostly shady. It is part of the UNESCO world heritage site and is home to unspoiled nature, different species of trees (there is a large amount of beech, maples, etc.) and Aleppo pine in the coastal areas.

This oasis of uncontaminated nature is home to a variety of animals and birds and there are also many well-signposted routes for cycling and trekking.

Cycling Description

Cycling the small mountainous promontory of the Gargano, is such a spectacular ride, an adventure of joy despite it being quite hilly but winding along scenic roads, unspoiled panoramas of coastal views, small or large coastal towns, historic towns, picturesque fishing villages, sandy beaches, endless sea views and inspiring landscapes, whilst inland you are surrounded by lush forests, pine valleys, mountains and incredible wildlife.

It is a very spectacular cycling tour with wild nature, difficult and challenging stretches of road with some big climbs but also many satisfying but satisfying descents with breathtaking views and curves to be enjoyed sitting on the saddle of the bicycle if you don't like physical effort!

The route

The route starts from the charming town of Manfredonia on the south coast, the gateway to the Gargano "the strating point of the adventure", passing the coastal municipalities of: Mattinata, Vieste, on the eastern tip,  Peschici, Rodi Garganico and Lesina "the closing point of the adventure" on the northern side of Monte Gargano in the province of Foggia.

First stretch of the cycle ride  - Manfredonia/Mattinata/Umbrian forest/Vieste

From the pretty town of Manfredonia I crossed its seafront (Nazzario Sauno) and then joined the old SS89 road. You pedal initially on easy sections and then with ups and downs with fantastic coastal and mountain scenery, you pass the sign for Monte Sant'Angelo which I didn't take but continuing to pedal but on the old road (SS 89) a short distance away you come across a detour that does not include the passage of the tunnel (bicycles are not allowed), from this point the road is certainly more demanding, going up with hairpin bends up the valley of the marine side of Monte Saraceno (260 m) which offers excellent panoramic points through glimpses of olive groves and waterfront views.

Then the descent and from a corner of the top emerges the enchanting hill that rises halfway up the slope and encloses the splendid white city of Mattinata surrounded by olive groves and breathtaking views of the sea.

Manfredonia is a seaside town on the southern slope of the Gargano Promontory at the head of the Golfo (gulf) of Manfredonia. It is located within the Gargano National Park in Puglia in the province of Foggia.

Mattinata is a small inland town nestled on two hills, Coppa Madonna and Castelluccio, surrounded by three mountains: Monte Sant'Angelo (west), Monte Saraceno (south), Monte Sacro (north), surrounded by terraces of different landscapes between views of olive trees, Aleppo pine forests, and other types of Mediterranean vegetation covering the slopes and valleys that approach the rugged cliffs and slope down towards the endless beaches and the sea of different shades.

* From Mattinata there are two alternatives to go towards Vieste: One choosing the "SS53 Litoranea per Mattina e Vieste" the road that runs closest to the coast, but I had already taken it on another cycling trip (stupendous views but it was busy in the summer period) . The second one choose the internal road of the SS 89 that crosses Mattinata-Foresta Umbra. And that's the one I chose.

After leaving Mattinata, returning to the SS89, you cycle close to the coast, where splendid views open up over the cliffs and the sea which you abandon as you enter the hinterland, crossing the Umbrian forest, you cycle at the foot of Monte Sacro and from about halfway along the route between one hairpin bend and the other uphill with challenging slopes up to the Valli del Lupo (682 m).

The lush hinterland of the promontory offers a verdant backdrop of forest vegetation and Mediterranean scrub, in some places while I was pedaling the sound of the bells of the grazing animals kept me company, it was precisely the noise I heard from that oasis of peace and the beauty of the uncontaminated nature. Finally the long descent takes me north of the promontory to the town of Vieste.

Vieste is a small historic seaside town nestled on a wonderful white limestone cliff and surrounded by many spectacular coastlines with beautiful long sandy beaches on the Gargano promontory, north of Puglia in the province of Foggia.

Second stretch of the cycle ride - Vieste/Peschici/Rodi Garganico/Lesina

From Vieste you cycle on the provincial road (SP52) you leave the coastal side at times with the ups and downs and the climbs become more tortuous reaching Peschici then you cycle much easier along the coast with the splendid view of the sea up to Rodi Garganico where you can see of the ancient watchtowers and trebuchets and finally flanked on the right side are the beaches and the Adriatic Sea and on the other side Lake Varano and Lake Lesina.

Peschici is a historic fishing village and located on a rocky promontory and its very charming whitewashed buildings are perched on the cliff above the waters of the turquoise sea. In the historic center it is characterized by narrow stone alleys, they are a real labyrinth of corners to discover where there are houses, restaurants and a church. There are also many beaches that have been awarded the Blue Flag, which recognizes the beaches for their cleanliness and excellent services offered to the clientele.

Rodi Garganico….