My first fully solo and independent cycling adventure followed Italy’s most spectacular coastal roads, with the wind and sea serving as a constant point of reference and endless horizons guiding every pedal stroke. From the Ligurian Sea to the Tyrrhenian, from the Ionian to the Adriatic, I traced the iconic “boot” of Italy, crossing thirteen regions: Liguria, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Calabria, Basilicata, Puglia, Molise, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

No official route existed: I created the journey from scratch, following my own pace and connecting the places I wanted to visit. There was no strict timetable to follow only a loose framework and the route could change day by day depending on weather, unexpected events, traffic, or road conditions. Bike paths like the Adriatic (B16) and Tyrrhenian (BI19) cycling routes, country dirt roads, and freer sections alternated, offering the freedom to ride at my own rhythm.

The waters of four seas accompanied me along winding roads and sun-drenched coasts, faithful companions throughout the journey. This was perhaps my most personal adventure, a journey tied to my roots that allowed me to deeply connect with my country, savoring not only breathtaking landscapes but also the encounters with local people.

This is why I chose to take it on alone: to fully immerse myself in every moment, to take in every detail, to feel the heartbeat of the land, and to bring home memories that will stay with me forever.

Stretching over 3,582 km of coastline, each day represented a new chapter. One pedal stroke at a time, I experienced an authentic adventure, fully immersed in the surroundings, forging a deep connection with the nature and culture of the places I passed through.

•  Route Map 📍: Explore the Route Map along the Peninsula

•  Watch 🎤: The interview Vincenzo Santoni did with me

•  Interview 🗨: My Bicycle Journey Told Through an Interview – ITALY'S FOUR SEAS: A Cycle Tour along the Italian Peninsula

•  Read the Blog and Watch the Trip Videos        🎥 : A single space where you’ll find the stories of each stage, daily maps, and virtual videos to relive my adventure as if you were right there

THE IONIAN COAST OF CALABRIA, BASILICATA, AND PUGLIA UP TO TARANTO

After leaving Reggio Calabria, my journey continued along the Ionian coast, where the roads run beside endless beaches and hidden bays.

Cycling here was a series of breathtaking views: golden beaches, crystal-clear waters, and small villages that seem frozen in time.

The Southernmost Point of Italy

One of the most meaningful moments was reaching Melito di Porto Salvo, the southernmost municipality of Italy, famous for Giuseppe Garibaldi’s landing during the Expedition of the Thousand. I paused for a moment to breathe in the historical atmosphere of the place before getting back on my bike and continuing north.

Villages and Coasts of the Ionian Calabria

I passed through towns like Roccella Ionica, Soverato, Isola di Capo Rizzuto, Crotone, and Cirò Marina, each with its own personality and colors.

Finally, I left Calabria and, upon entering Basilicata, I cycled the short stretch of coastline to Nova Siri and then to Metaponto, an ancient city of Magna Graecia. Pedaling next to the ruins and knowing that one of the most important Greek colonies once thrived here felt like traveling back in time.

Entering Puglia and Arriving in Taranto

From there, I entered Puglia and, following the coastline, I reached Taranto, the stunning “City of Two Seas.” It was moving to see the water glistening on both sides of the city as I crossed it on my bike.

Here a new chapter of my journey began: entering Salento, the heel of Italy’s boot, a sun-kissed peninsula surrounded by the Ionian Sea and the Adriatic Sea.

FROM SALENTO TO GARGANO: CYCLING THE ADRIATIC COAST TO MOLISE

Salento – The Heel of Italy

Leaving Taranto, I began cycling through Salento, the heel of Italy. The sun shone relentlessly, the Ionian Sea stretched to my left, while on the right the landscape was dotted with olive groves, white farmhouses, dry-stone walls, and small ancient chapels. Every curve offered postcard-perfect views and the unmistakable scent of Mediterranean scrub.

Gallipoli and the Ionian Coast

I passed through true natural paradises, with beaches alternating between rocky cliffs over deep blue waters and white sand dunes lapped by turquoise waves, creating an almost Caribbean atmosphere. The old town of Gallipoli, located on a limestone island in the Ionian Sea, is connected to the mainland by a 17th-century bridge. The Angevin-Aragonese Castle, completely surrounded by water, dominates the entrance to the old town and offers a journey back in time.

Capo di Leuca – Where Two Seas Meet

I reached Santa Maria di Leuca, the southernmost point of Salento, where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet. From there, I began riding north along the Adriatic coast, following the Ciclovia Adriatica (also known as the Green Adriatic Corridor), a cycling route that stretches for over 1,300 km, connecting Puglia to Trieste and crossing Molise, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.

Cycling Along the Adriatic Coast

I pedaled through historic villages, countryside lined with olive trees, and quiet secondary roads running parallel to the sea. Each stop was a chance to take photos, enjoy a gelato, or simply pause to admire the view. Cycling here means experiencing Puglia slowly, breathing in the sea air, feeling the Mediterranean breeze, and discovering the authenticity of the ancient towns.

From Otranto to Gargano

I passed through towns like Otranto, Brindisi, Monopoli, and Bari, heading farther north until I reached the gateway to the Gargano at Manfredonia. Here the road begins to climb into the mountainous Gargano promontory, known as the “Spur of Italy.” I followed the winding route through Mattinata, Vieste, Peschici, and Rodi Garganico: challenging climbs and descents rewarded with breathtaking views, the scent of pine trees, and spectacular coastal panoramas.

From the Lesina Lakes to Molise

Leaving Gargano behind, the route flattened again, passing by the Lesina and Varano Lakes and along the short sandy coastline of Molise, which stretches for about 35 km. This peaceful and relaxing section was the perfect transition before entering Abruzzo, where new mountains and dramatic landscapes awaited me.

INTRODUCTION coming soon

And so, the journey took me along surprising roads, breathtaking landscapes, and unforgettable encounters, turning every pedal stroke into a memory to cherish. Each day was a new chapter, one pedal at a time, along a journey meant to be fully experienced and shared.

CYCLING ACROSS LIGURIA: FROM VENTIMIGLIA TO THE TUSCAN BORDER

Ventimiglia: Starting Point

My bike journey began in Ventimiglia, the modern border town where I arrived by train from Milan. Once I strapped the panniers to my bike rack, I was ready to set off. I first rode through the town center and stopped by the Roya River, where Ventimiglia Alta – the medieval hilltop village   was perfectly visible.

Along the Via Aurelia

I joined the historic Via Aurelia, with the glittering sea on my right and rolling green hills on my left, riding until I reached Ospedaletti.

The Riviera dei Fiori Cycle Path

From Ospedaletti to Sanremo the city world-famous for hosting the annual Sanremo Music Festival I followed the scenic coastal route known as the Riviera dei Fiori Cycle Path. This is the very first section of the ambitious Ciclovia Tirrenica, an 814 km cycling route that will connect Liguria, Tuscany, and Lazio, passing through historic towns, nature reserves, and some of Italy’s most iconic seaside destinations. Once completed, it will be one of the most spectacular long-distance cycling routes in the country.

The section currently open runs for 24 km along a disused railway, passing through atmospheric lit tunnels, over bridges, and alongside protected coastal areas – always with the Ligurian Sea right next to you.

Along the way, you’ll find bike service stations, “bike grills,” and scenic viewpoints perfect for a pause, a snack, and a moment to take in the horizon..

Reaching Genoa

Continuing east, I alternated between bike paths and quiet secondary roads, riding through beach towns and coastal promenades until I reached Genoa, the bustling port city at the heart of Liguria.

The Riviera di Levante and Passo del Bracco

Leaving Genoa behind, I entered the Riviera di Levante, passing Bogliasco, Recco, Rapallo, Chiavari, and Sestri Levante before turning inland to tackle the Passo del Bracco. This climb was spectacular: about 15 km of winding switchbacks along the ancient Via Aurelia, 600 m of elevation gain, and an average gradient of 3.8%. Each turn offered sweeping views of the Mediterranean slowly fading behind me.

A Farewell to Liguria

After the descent into Borghetto di Vara, I rejoined the coast and reached Marinella di Sarzana, on the very edge of Liguria, right at the Tuscan border. It was my last chance to stop, admire the sea and mountains, and take in the moment before continuing toward new shores.

TUSCANY – TYRRHENIAN SEA: CYCLING THE ETRUSCAN COAST

Entering Tuscany

Leaving Marinella di Sarzana, at the eastern tip of Liguria, I entered northern Tuscany at Marina di Carrara, riding along quiet back roads and sections of the Ciclovia Tirrenica, which runs parallel to the sea and offers ever-changing views.

Versilia and the Viareggio Cycle Path

I continued along the beautiful Versilia coastal cycle path, 28 km from Marina di Massa to Forte dei Marmi, Pietrasanta, and Viareggio, riding between pine forests, sandy beaches, and charming seaside villages.

The Viareggio cycle path, also known as the Fausto Coppi Path, follows the same routes where the legendary cyclist used to train daily, a true tribute to the city’s cycling heritage.

Migliarino, San Rossore, and Massaciuccoli Park

The route then crosses the Migliarino – San Rossore – Massaciuccoli Regional Park, a biodiversity haven of dunes, pinewoods, and wetlands. I took a detour to Pisa, to admire the iconic Leaning Tower and the stunning Piazza dei Miracoli, an unmissable stop on this journey.

The Maremma

Reaching Marina di Bibbona, the route continues toward the Piombino promontory, with breathtaking views of Elba Island and Capraia, before arriving at the Gulf of Follonica in the heart of the Maremma.

From here, I ride to Castiglione della Pescaia, with its medieval village perched on a hill and the Aragonese Castle overlooking the coastline. Continuing south, I reach Marina di Grosseto, then Grosseto itself, riding alongside the Maremma Natural Park (also known as the Uccellina Regional Park), a 25 km stretch of pristine, wild nature.

The Orbetello Lagoon and the End of the Tuscan Section

Finally, I reach Orbetello Scalo and the famous Orbetello Lagoon, a protected wetland and a rich ecosystem home to rare bird species, including pink flamingos. The town of Orbetello sits on a narrow strip of land dividing the lagoon from the open sea.

Long sandy beaches separate the lagoon from the Tyrrhenian Sea, and as I pedal through these quiet coastal areas and small villages, the peacefulness of the Tuscan shoreline accompanies the final part of this journey before crossing into southern Maremma in Lazio.

LAZIO – TYRRHENIAN COAST

Leaving the Tuscan Maremma with its pine forests and untouched beaches, I enter the coastal strip of the Laziale Maremma, reaching Civitavecchia along the seafront. The sea on my right accompanies me like a faithful travel companion. Here, I admire the famous “Embracing Peace” statue (also known as “Unconditional Surrender”), a work celebrating peace inspired by the iconic New York photograph at the end of World War II a moment of deep reflection during the journey.

During this stop, I meet Massimo, a clay shooting instructor who works in Abruzzo and Sardinia. With great hospitality, he shares his life principle: “treat others as you would like to be treated”. We chat over cappuccino and a brioche, and his small gesture makes my day even more memorable.

The Litorale Romano State Nature Reserve

Continuing along the route, I pass through the Litorale Romano State Nature Reserve, located in Fiumicino. This protected area boasts exceptional archaeological heritage and spectacular sea views. Every pause along the path becomes an invitation to slow down, breathe, and let the rhythm of the waves and the beauty of the coast guide you.

Anzio and Nettuno

Arriving in Anzio, a historic town famous for its harbor, golden beaches, and Roman villas, I take a refreshing break along the seafront, watching boats and the daily life of local fishermen. Continuing north, the route passes through Nettuno, with its peaceful beaches and surrounding countryside, reaching Latina via country roads flanked by traditional farms and lush landscapes.

Meeting a Fellow Cyclist

In Sabaudia, while enjoying a sandwich at a local shop, I meet a German touring cyclist named Arthur. After a few friendly chats and saying goodbye to the shop owner, we decide to ride together for a few days, sharing kilometers, laughter, and stunning views. He heads south, and I continue my journey toward new destinations.

Heading to Southern Italy

Every kilometer along the Lazio coastline offers sparkling sea views, small coastal villages, and moments of total immersion in nature and history. Cycling along the Ciclovia Tirrenica, the road will eventually take me along the spectacular coasts of Campania, Basilicata, and Tyrrhenian Calabria, ready for the next adventures.

Route Overview

•  Start Date: September 13, 2023

•  Starting Point: Ventimiglia – a charming town on the Ligurian Riviera, just a few kilometers from the French border

•  Finish: Trieste – capital of Friuli Venezia Giulia, near the Slovenian border. From here, I took the train back to Milan.

•  Total Distance: 3,582 km (cycling counterclockwise along Italy’s coastal roads)

•  Daily Average: 123 km per day, around 8.5 hours in the saddle

•  Duration: 30 consecutive days, with no rest days

•  Bike: My faithful companion, Girasole

•  Route Type: Entirely self-planned, following the Italian coast

•  Regions Crossed: Liguria, Tuscany, Lazio, Campania, Calabria, Basilicata, Puglia, Molise, Abruzzo, Marche, Emilia-Romagna, Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Special Note: This adventure began with a small act of kindness my brother Claudio and his wife Elena helped me load Girasole onto the train at Milan’s Central Station. I also wish to thank my mother, my sister Roby, Vivi, Daniela, and everyone else who, even if not mentioned by name, followed my journey every single day. The local people made the trip even more special with their valuable advice and warm hospitality.

ABRUZZO AND MARCHE – THE ADRIATIC COAST AND THE CICLOVIA DEI TRABOCCHI

Abruzzo – The Ciclovia dei Trabocchi

The route continues along the Ciclovia dei Trabocchi, a unique path running along the coast, dotted with wooden fishing platforms (trabocchi) and breathtaking views. Between charming villages such as Vasto, San Salvo, and Ortona, the landscape alternates between beaches, low cliffs, and pine forests scented with resin.

Ortona – Piazza degli Eroi Canadesi

I stopped in Ortona, where the main square was recently renovated and renamed Piazza degli Eroi Canadesi. It was a meaningful pause to enjoy the local atmosphere and reflect on the historical significance of the place.

Vasto – Above the Sea

I went uphill to explore Vasto, a town built 144 metres above sea level, fully justifying its name “Above the Sea.” Perched on a hillside, Vasto has a charming medieval old centre, where the vast sky stretches above and the sea extends far below. From up here, the view of the Adriatic coast is truly spectacular, making it a memorable highlight of the journey.

Cycling here means breathing in the fresh Adriatic air, listening to the waves, and enjoying unique landscapes where tradition and nature exist in perfect harmony.

From Ortona to Pescara

Heading north, the Ciclovia Adriatica connects coastal towns like Ortona, Francavilla al Mare, and Pescara, alternating between urban bike lanes along the seafront and quiet secondary roads. Every stop offers incredible views of crystal-clear waters, lighthouses, and small harbors, with opportunities to taste local cuisine or enjoy a gelato in the squares overlooking the sea.

Marche – Between Villages and Seafronts

Crossing into the Marche region, the coast continues with towns such as San Benedetto del Tronto, Porto d’Ascoli, Grottammare, and Ancona, where the Ciclovia Adriatica runs along seafronts, urban bike paths, and scenic secondary roads.

Cycling here reveals golden beaches, harbors, and historic villages, with panoramic views of the Adriatic stretching to the horizon.

Riding along this coast allows you to experience the life of small coastal towns, feel the sea breeze, and soak in the ancient history of seaside villages

EMILIA-ROMAGNA, VENETO AND FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA – TOWARDS TRIESTE: THE END OF A WONDERFUL JOURNEY

Emilia-Romagna – Through Pine Forests and Fishing Villages

In Emilia-Romagna, the coastal bike paths wind through pine forests, fields, and fishing villages, connecting towns like Cattolica, Riccione, Rimini, Bellaria, Cervia, Ravenna, and Comacchio, with the beaches of the Delta always in view and the sea as a constant companion.

Veneto – A Detour to Venice

In Veneto, I made a detour to Venice, parking my bike and wandering through alleys, bridges, and canals, soaking up the unique atmosphere of the city on the water.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia – Arrival in Trieste

Finally, urban bike paths in Friuli-Venezia Giulia led me to Trieste, where the journey came to an end. After 3,582 km across thirteen regions, I paused to breathe in the wind and the sea, savoring the satisfaction of an adventure fully lived, with the sea always on my right as my faithful travel companion.